Powderroom
The Sunday Age
Sunday June 17, 2007
Research supports claims that retinol cream reduces wrinkles - but it should be applied with caution, says Natasha Hughes.
The only proven anti-ageing treatment, retinol cream, has been further endorsed by research reported in an American Medical Association journal: Archives of Dermatology said retinol may also help promote the production of skin-building compounds so that skin becomes more likely to withstand injury and resist ulcers.Retinol, based on the substance tretinoin, which is related to Vitamin A, is available though prescription in Australia under brand names Stieva A and Retin A. It costs about $25 a tube, which lasts six months. It acts by accelerating skin-cell turnover and rebuilding the renewable skin layer. Dermatologists say that, if it is used for more than 12 months, it may introduce new collagen to the superficial level of the dermis."There's no doubt that it works," says Dr Greg Goodman, a Toorak dermatologist. "For anti-ageing, for photo-ageing and for acne, it's the best thing about. It means you don't have to pay a lot to get the best of anti-ageing."The results of the latest research were based on a study of 36 subjects, aged 80 and older, who had lotion with 0.4 per cent retinol applied to one arm and lotion without retinol applied to the other three times a week for 24 weeks. Wrinkles, roughness and overall severity of ageing were rated. Skin treated with retinol had a "significant decline in wrinkle severity", Dr Reza Kafi of the University of Michigan Medial School reported.St Kilda Road plastic surgeon Dr Peter Dixon says only a true medical peel, which involves days of healing and discomfort, produces the results of retinol."But Retin A has to be done knowingly because it can be quite harsh," Dr Dixon says. Using it is not straightforward: it must be first applied to the outside of the face then the central two-thirds, but kept away from the eyelids, corner of the nose and lips. For the first two weeks, it must be washed off after less than an hour. It must not be used by pregnant women (Dr Moss suggests they use a high-potency Vitamin C serum). Exposure to sunlight must be avoided. Also expect some unattractive reactions: redness, drying and flaking. Dr Moss recommends that people wanting a prescription for retinol cream should consult a dermatologist or plastic surgeon: "In my experience, GPs don't have a clue about supporting skin health. You need someone with an ongoing interest and specialisation in normal skin."After eight weeks, when the side effects have abated, you can expect smoother and more translucent skin. "I can vouch for it," says one respondent to The Age's beauty blog (blogs.theage.com.au/lifestyle/beautybeat). "I was prescribed it for acne 34 years ago and have used it on and off since. I am nearly 50, now, and there is not a line (or pimple or splotch) on my face."nhughes@theage.com.au
© 2007 The Sunday Age